Craftsman 109 series metal lathe – Video #1
A short video of my late 1930′s metal lathe turning 1018 stock, just a light pass removing .020″
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Comments
well, yes…but a drill press is very practical. And can help a small lathe do bigger jobs, like drill big holes or center drill for workholding! Id never be w o one! even tho i have two lathes! One big and a compact.
I agree because my rules are (for steels)…
1.always use coolant for roughing to extend tool life and so you don’t burn yourself
and
2. don’t use coolant on the finishing cuts because you don’t need it and lube messes with the finish.
A lathe can do anything a stupid drill press can do and more.
A dual use drill/mill is the best investment.
hey i might buy a craftsman 101.07301 lathe. any ways do u know anything about those? as far as precision goes.
Well, they are a bit crude really. There are no markings to feed, so you need to do it in your head, and they tend to have some play. There are things you can do to adjust and tune them up. If I had to look for a lathe in this size, I would look towards the small 9″ Southbend lathes or the 6″ Atlas 618 lathes. I think these would be a better starting point.
hey are those pretty accurete? cus im thinken of geting one
just a few things the carbide bit get burned out very easily i would advise using tungsten and and would also advise getting an oiler to avoid risking burning yourself
Yes, your partly correct the proper way
is to take heavy cuts on your stock removal, applying coolant to reduce friction and obviously to cool the tooling.
Your finish cut at a high spindle speed
and a slow feed rate generally won’t require coolant since you should ony be
removing .002 to .003 thousands. Coolant
application is necessary but not a replacement for proper speeds and feeds. I have machined a lot of items over
the years without using coolant at all.
The only time when cooling is important is when you are working with narrow tollerance’s. heat makes your metal expand and you might finish with a workpiece that is to small.
with carbide bits it is often even better to to not cool the bit.
me too used it a couple weeks ago
yo make a brass hammer and plum bob
To each his own, I was a machinist for 8
years until my layoff. We used carbide tooling
for everything. The only time I worried about
lubricating the tool was when I cut threads,
and some milling machine apps. Not trying to
be a know it all, personally I feel a lot
machinists think lubricating the work is the
way to achive a good finish when actually
learning proper feeds and speeds is the ticket
to high quality work. If your concerned about
heat use a water based tooling lubricant.
The lube helps keep the carbide bits cooler at the higher speed. It may seem very fast, but it is only running about 700 which is not as big of a deal with the carbide over a HSS bit.
I do have a chuck for it now, although I make these between centers so I can flip them over. The feed can not be slowed down any more save for a lower motor speed. Keep in mind, this is a rather old lathe and you can only do so much.
I got one of those!
Applying a lubricant while roughing stock is
not necessary. Also, the speed that your
running the spindle and the tool are too fast
for removing .020 of an inch. Typically fast
spindle speeds and slow tool travel are for
finish passes at .002 to .003. Buy yourself a
3 jaw scroll plate chuck and use the drill
chuck for tailstock operations. Use a speed and feed chart. A lot of lathe work relies on
the way your material responds and your skill
at observing it. lol!
The brush is coated with mineral oil to keep the stock lubed. Kind of a self lubing system I designed.
Whats the brush there for?
Glad to see it still running!! Keep it up!
nice to see that old machine working very cool
Nice demo. Good to see it working.
very cool
Thank you, check back later and I will have a video that is not as bad as this one. LT
Very cool … Thats a sweet lathe.
Shane